The True Face of Islam

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The True Face of Islam
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03/14/01 at 21:58:20
The True Face of Islam
by Zachary Karabell
from [url=http://www.msnbc.com/news/542506.asp]MSNBC[/url]
for Newsweek International


[i] Despite its violent image in the West, the religion is a balm to millions
in an otherwise cruel and crowded world.[/i]


 March 19 issue — Islam may be one of the world’s most important religions,
 but in the West, at least, it has an image problem. Hizbullah in Lebanon,
 Hamas in the West Bank, fundamentalist violence in Indonesia, the
 “mullocracy” of Iran, all are seen as representative of the rage that is
 Islam. That, in fact, was the main thrust of a Feb. 19 piece in NEWSWEEK
 on Osama bin Laden and the new wave of Islamic terrorist groups.
  Islam is a religion held dear by nearly a billion people, and it
 shouldn’t surprise us that there are more than a handful of extremists.
 But on a recent trip to Egypt, I found little evidence of them.
  YET THESE GROUPS no more represent Islam than the Branch Davidians of
 Waco, Texas, represented Christianity or the Aum Shinrikyo represented
 Japanese spirituality. Islam is a religion held dear by nearly a billion
 people, and it shouldn’t surprise us that there are more than a handful of
 extremists. But on a recent trip to Egypt, I found little evidence of
 them. Yes, a few marginal cells of violent radicals still exist, despite
 the draconian efforts of Hosni Mubarak’s secret police. But for tens of
 millions of Egyptians, Islam is an oasis of calm.
  Egypt’s population is fast approaching 70 million, and with a growth rate
 just under 2 percent annually, overpopulation is a very real problem.
 Cairo has one of the highest population densities on the planet, and the
 rest of Egypt’s minimal amount of arable land is quickly becoming
 saturated with people and unchecked growth. The government subsidizes food
 and housing, which is a small blessing, but jobs are scarce, early
 mortality looms and the international economy seems to be passing Egypt by.
         In this dreary context, Islam is a balm and a salve. The
 hour-and-a-half drive from Cairo to the industrial port city of Suez is
 dusty and ugly, festooned with debris and billboards. But it is at least
 broken up by the names of God lining the median. In Islam, God is said to
 have 99 names, which include “The Compassionate” and “The Merciful,” and
 they are posted, every 100 yards, all the way from Cairo to Suez. My
 driver was quick to point this out, and we spent the better part of the
 ride listing the names and negotiating the fare. I had met him early that
 morning, and he had been 10 minutes late because of prayer, which he
 performed in the hotel’s coat room with several of the bellhops.
   I took a bus from Suez to the canal city of Ismailia. The bus was an
 old, creaky box stuffed full of people. But for the first half hour, there
 was a preternatural calm as everyone sat quietly and listened to a tape of
 a mellifluous Quran reciter, as pure and simple as Gregorian chant. At
 every juncture, Islam in Egypt defies our stereotypes. The al-Azhar mosque
 and university in central Cairo is one of the most conservative bastions
 of Islam in Egypt. Recently the sheik of al-Azhar condemned the writings
 of a number of authors, and the government has not stood in the way of
 several of these being brought to trial. The sheik of al-Azhar, like all
 clerics in Egypt, is a government employee and receives a stipend from the
 state. But inside the mosque itself, you would never guess that this is a
 center of Islamic intolerance. The sheiks are friendly, and if you speak a
 little Arabic, they will happily talk about the architecture, renovations
 and history of the place. They are not interested in proselytizing, and
 when I told them I was from America, they smiled and said simply, “You are
 welcome.”
         For most Egyptians, Islam is intensely personal. Like many
 American Protestants, Muslims tend to emphasize the relationship between
 each individual and God, without intermediaries. In a world of sprawling
 prefab concrete housing projects, with high unemployment, an indifferent
 and occasionally brutal government, Islam is part of the warp and woof
 that maintains community and gives people some sense that life has
 meaning.
   There are those who would say that all this proves is that Islam is an
 opiate for the masses, but who are we to say? Islam may not solve the more
 intractable problems, and in soothing the dislocations it may even make
 some things worse. But then again, if you go to the Citadel in Cairo on a
 Friday, as I did, you can stand, perched above the city with the mosque of
 Muhammad Ali at your back, and you can peek above the torrential smog that
 envelops the city of 12 million people, and you can just make out the
 Pyramids in the distance. You can listen, not to the sound of cars or
 factories, but to the call to prayer, sounded throughout the city,
 reminding all listeners of God’s compassion and mercy. It is a haunting
 symphony, and juxtaposed with the devastation of overpopulation and
 stagnant growth, it allows you to close your eyes and feel, at least for a
 few moments, that all is well with the world.

 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Karabell is the author of “A Visionary Nation: Four Centuries of American
 Dreams and What Lies Ahead,” to be published by HarperCollins
NS


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